Anticipation hung as thick as the dust in the air as we marched down the gravel road. Colorful lanterns shone in the darkness as far as I could see and shed just enough light to see the excited faces of the people walking next to me. The refrains of familiar songs wafted through the crowd and the smell of burning paper alerted me to the nearby presence of many small children carrying fire on sticks.
It was September 14th, the night before Costa Rica’s Independence Day. Local tradition dictates that faroles, or lanterns, be lit and carried from town to town or school to school to celebrate freedom. When Costa Rica gained its independence from Spain in 1821, villagers spread the news of the country’s accomplishment in this same way, though I imagine their lanterns were not shaped like oxcarts, typical houses, or tropical birds.
Making the perfect lantern is a big deal in our town. Kids and their parents spend days planning and creating theirs. There are only two rules: you must be able to carry it, and it must glow in the dark. Of course, if you don’t have time to create one, you can always buy one made out of red, white and blue paper at just about any store. On the night of the 14th, many elementary schools host a small celebration and hand out prizes to the owners of the most creative lanterns. Patriotic songs are sung, drums are beaten, and then the march begins.
Our particular parade walked from an elementary school down the road to the biggest local intersection, which is about a kilometer walk. Two other groups met us at the intersection, each from a different elementary school. Then the combined crowd of about 200 people stood in a circle, sang some songs, chatted over the persistent rhythm from several boys’ drums, and then stood back to watch the grand finale: a fireworks display.
Several intersecting power lines hung above the crossroads where we had gathered. A forest and a small wooden house were also within a short distance of the chosen shoot-off spot. Despite these potential dangers (I was expecting a power outage at the very least), the impressive display went off without any major disasters. Of course, several lanterns (especially those of the 6th grade boys) had turned into torches by the end of the night, but that was by design.
Earlier that day, students of all ages around the country participated in the passing of the torch, an event very similar to the running of the Olympic torch. The news of the country’s independence 190 years ago came from Nicaragua in the north, so Costa Rican children strategically position themselves along the many routes leading south from the Nicaraguan border. When the flame reaches them, the groups light their own torch then run like crazy to meet the next group of runners. The torches eventually end up back at their respective schools, ready to light the night’s celebration.
The 15th was filled with parades and performances. Nearly every elementary-aged student from our area, and many high schoolers as well, participated in one of the many parades. Some played the drums or xylophones, some twirled batons or carried flags, and others danced in traditional outfits or rode in colorful oxcarts. Then there were musical performances on stage, kids played on the soccer field and hungry revelers sampled the typical fare offered by food vendors.
After living in this country for a little less than a year and having experienced every one of its holidays and celebrations, we can say for certain that Independence Day definitely takes the cake. It’s one heck of a party.
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